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Grant
your turn signals some life
If you install any of the Grant Steering
wheels, your torn signal cancelers are likely to break off on the first cold day
(if they haven’t all ready). After several expensive replacements, I
finally discovered what was happening. Your stock steering wheel had a cam to
contact the cancelers while the Grant horn kit comes with two roll pins to
contact the cancelers. When you turn the steering wheel in the direction of the
turn the roll pins usually work well. However, when the steering wheel returns
the roll pins catch a very small tab on the backside of the canceler causing a
distinct clicking. This clicking is the roll pin snagging, and on colder days
when the plastic canceler arm is more brittle, they snap off and there goes
another eighty some odd dollars. In order to have your turn signals still
function properly you must make the following adjustments:
P.S. I use Hockey tape for electrical
connections and wire bundling as FMC
does in late model vehicles.
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First, you have to file or grind off the canceling arms* I found a Die-Grinder
worked the best while the switch was on the vehicle although taking the
canceler assembly off is preferable. In any case, you may have to do final
grinding or filing after the installing the assembler to obtain proper and
equal clearance between the steering shaft and the cancelers. The overall
length of the arm should end up about 7/8" on the top canceler arm and
13/16" on the lower. You may have to experiment a bit for you particular
vehicle. You should be able to pass a 3/8” bolt in between the steering shaft
and the canceler.
After you finish the canceler arms, if you did not purchase a “deep dish”
style steering wheel you will have to bend the turn signal arm back away from
the Grant Steering Wheels. Most of the Grant wheel designs have to shallow a
dish to provide room for the driver. Use
