Also Visit:
Tips and Tricks for your Holley or Edelbrock
I
have had continued problems with the idle mixture screws vibrating out of
adjustment on the Edelbrock Performer. I would tune it and drive along a week or
two and my performance and gas mileage would go down the tubes. Finally after
the third or forth time I came up with this solution:
|
|
Take two small plastic caps |
|
|
Drill a small hole in the edge of each cap |
|
|
Use a small piece of ridged wire to tie the caps together |
|
|
Adjust your fuel mixture screws and press the caps into place |
I used two coaxial connector caps off some TV equipment I had purchased to stop the Edelbrock self-adjusting problem. If you do not happen to keep every little piece of junk (like I do), you could also make do with other small pipe or hydraulic fitting caps. If the only ones you can find do not quite fit you can heat them with a lighter and crimp them with pliers to get them to fit tight on the head of the screws.
Holley Truck Avenger
Secondary Idle Adjustment
I
as many people have had a problem with my Holley Truck Avenger idling to high
and burning rich. Anything I tried every adjustment I could find fast idle, curb
idle, air mixture...etc. Nothing seemed to help. Finally after removing the carb
and putting it on the make shift pedestals described in the Chelton's Holley
Manual, I found the secondary idle adjustment screw.
On
the downloaded Holley.pdf
file it says to unscrew the screw until it is not touching the arm and then
screw it in 1 turn, but the Chelton's Manual says 1/4 turn back in for the
4150?!?! Well since my problem seemed to stem from "to much", I
decided to go with Chelton's 1/4 turn back in. Now it seemed it did not idle
fast enough during cold idle. After so frustration and procrastinating to pull
the carb again, I found a way to adjust it on the manifold.
With
the extremely convenient placement of this adjustment screw (and I thought
the high idle screw was bad) you will need:
|
|
A very small
1/4" ratchet with a small 1/4" socket and 1/4" or less flat
screwdriver bit. |
|
|
Alternatively, a very small right angle flat ratchet screwdriver may work. |
The
key to this is having a tool with a very small ratchet head; normal 1/4"
socket sets will not work. The tool has to ratchet because of the limited room
there is to turn the screw and the multiple possible positions the screw cold be
in.
Tips for either Carburetor
Some
tricks and techniques can work with any carburetor.
One
trick that works well with Broncos is to use the heat activated switch
originally intended to open the EGR diaphragm, if you are no longer using it,
you can use it to act as a vacuum advance delay.
On
the Holley, use the original two-port switch as a CSC (coolant Spark Control)
this will keep your engine timing retarded until your engine warms up. Retarding
the timing will cause your engine to warm-up faster and help stop it from
coughing and/or stalling during off idle acceleration.
On the
Edelbrock, get a three-port switch to use as a PVS (Ported Vacuum Switch) to
give extra vacuum, which increases the idle during high coolant heat situations
such as during prolonged idling in traffic. The PVS will also slow an
acceleration vacuum jump that causes the “flat spot” on these carburetors.
Here are
some pages out of the MightyVac user manual. (The only place I could find
information on this subject)
The
only drawback CSC's is that it may reduce your fast idle causing the need for
adjustment. PVS's do not effect fast idle.
If
you have not disabled your EGR, you can get the switch from your local Ford
dealer. They are available in several different heat ranges coded by color. Most
parts supplier's employees will give a blank stare when you start asking for
vacuum switches so here is a listing I received with my three port PVS from a
local NAPA parts supplier.
